SO having last month, I hope, looked at your histograms from the shots you have taken, you have started to adjust your controls to compensate accordingly?
Still getting blown whites? Well lets start with the F-stop, on a really bright (harsh lighting) day start at around f16 maybe pick a bright subject and check for highlights.
How do you do that? Use your in camera menu to set your view options so that highlights are flashing on you rear screen. Now you have an indicator of the amount of highlights will be lost to you, this should really reflect the information your getting from the histogram.
Now you can make adjustments using the EV control to lessen the flashy bits or f-stop or ISO or a combination of all three. It is really your choice how you get the information you want.
My personnel choice is the EV control, as I generally want to keep the depth of field shallow (blur the background) thereby drawing attention to the subject.
when you are shooting against reflective surfaces ie water or a bright sky all you get are silhouettes. In its most basic, the light metering in the camera is adjusting to the largest area , this being the sky or the water so in this case some over exposure is better
Allowing more light from the target. Again it will be a matter of testing and learning how your meter system is reading these situations, I find +1.5 to +2 EV suits my system, however a test before will confirm that.
Still getting blown whites? Well lets start with the F-stop, on a really bright (harsh lighting) day start at around f16 maybe pick a bright subject and check for highlights.
How do you do that? Use your in camera menu to set your view options so that highlights are flashing on you rear screen. Now you have an indicator of the amount of highlights will be lost to you, this should really reflect the information your getting from the histogram.
Now you can make adjustments using the EV control to lessen the flashy bits or f-stop or ISO or a combination of all three. It is really your choice how you get the information you want.
My personnel choice is the EV control, as I generally want to keep the depth of field shallow (blur the background) thereby drawing attention to the subject.
when you are shooting against reflective surfaces ie water or a bright sky all you get are silhouettes. In its most basic, the light metering in the camera is adjusting to the largest area , this being the sky or the water so in this case some over exposure is better
Allowing more light from the target. Again it will be a matter of testing and learning how your meter system is reading these situations, I find +1.5 to +2 EV suits my system, however a test before will confirm that.
So why not go to the local pond on a bright day and practice on the local ducks.
After all practice makes perfect.
February 2010
Next Month: March 2010
The Auto-focus system.
Which should I use?
The Auto-focus system.
Which should I use?